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防水睫毛膏、脱毛膏、卸妆湿巾、防晒粉底液、哑光唇膏……这些你每天都离不开的美容产品其实最伤皮肤。
WATERPROOF1 MASCARA 防水睫毛膏
'Long-wear, waterproof mascaras can be really tricky2 to remove if you don't have a good eye makeup3 remover,' skincare specialist Kirsti Shuba said. 'If eye makeup isn't thoroughly4 removed, it's possible that left over make-up can get into our tiny hair follicles and cause eye infections and in some case lashes5 can fall out.
护肤专家基尔斯蒂·舒巴说:“如果没有一款优质的眼部卸妆产品,持久防水睫毛膏很难卸干净。如果不把眼妆彻底卸掉,残留的化妆品可能会进入毛孔,导致眼睛发炎甚至睫毛脱落。”
HAIR REMOVAL CREAM 脱毛膏
Hair removal expert Sunny Choudhery says that hair removal creams can cause your skin unnecessary irritation6 because of the harsh chemicals used to dissolve hair.
脱毛专家桑妮·乔德里说,脱毛膏会给皮肤带来不必要的刺激,因为脱毛膏所含的溶解毛发的化学物质刺激性很强。
'Hair removal creams are the worst thing you could apply to your skin', she said. 'They are designed to dissolve the hair on the surface - not even removing hair from root, giving you a stubbly regrowth.'
她说:“脱毛膏是对皮肤伤害最大的产品。脱毛膏只能溶解皮肤表面的毛发,但是不能根除,所以新长出的毛发只会更硬更密。”
She said that it's much better to opt7 for methods such as waxing or threading that may cause an initial sting, which will quickly fade.
她说,用蜡或细线等方法除毛要好得多,也许一开始会疼,但是很快就不疼了。
MAKE UP WIPES 卸妆湿巾
Dr Uliana Gout, founder8 of London Aesthetic9 Medicine said: 'Wipes often filled with perfume and other preservatives10 which can cause skin sensitivities.
伦敦美容医药机构的创始人乌利亚纳·高特博士说:“卸妆湿巾通常含有香精和其他会导致皮肤敏感的防腐剂。”
'We often see redness and stinging as a major complaint after a few weeks of wipe use. The skin barrier is impaired11, inflammation can rise and we start to look red, sore and our makeup no longer looks it's best.'
“在使用卸妆湿巾几周后,大部分人的皮肤都会开始发红刺痛。皮肤屏障被削弱了,皮肤开始发炎、发红、肿痛,妆容效果也因此打折扣。”
Dr Ross Perry, of Medical Director of Cosmedics skin clinics, added: 'Baby wipes or water wipes will only take off a small amount of make-up and dirt from the skin, in actual fact all you're doing is rubbing the make-up further into the skin.
美容医学皮肤诊所的医疗总监罗丝·佩里博士说:“婴儿湿巾或普通湿巾只能去除皮肤上的一小部分化妆品和污垢,事实上,湿巾的摩擦作用还会让化妆品进入深层皮肤。”
'You need something extra to take off the make-up and dirt from the skin itself. My advice is to opt for liquid cleansers and cleansing12 creams which help to lift the dirt from the skin and keep pores clean. '
“想要卸妆洁面不能只靠湿巾。我的建议是选择液体洁肤露和洁面乳来去除皮肤污垢,保持毛孔清洁。”
FOUNDATION WITH SPF 防晒粉底
Dr Perry says that while wearing make-up with added SPF is a good thing, it's important to understand that this alone won't fully13 protect your skin.
佩里博士指出,尽管粉底带防晒功能是好事,但是你要知道,光是涂防晒粉底并不能对皮肤起到充分的防护作用。
'When companies test out an SPF they slather on a thick layer, unfortunately when we put foundation on we're only really using a fraction of what's actually needed,' said Dr Perry. 'You also run the risk of make-up sliding off the face and losing what little protection there actually is.
佩里博士说:“当公司测试一款产品的防晒功能时,都会厚厚地涂抹,不幸的是,我们在涂粉底时,用量只是所需的一小部分。而且粉底还可能脱落,失去仅有的那一点防护作用。”
'Make-up is rarely broad spectrum14. Therefore it's best to use a broad spectrum SPF after moisturising. Allow it to sink into the skin before adding foundation with added SPF for extra protection.'
“粉底所带的防晒值基本上都不高。因此最好是先给皮肤做保湿,然后涂上防晒系数高的防晒霜。让皮肤吸收防晒霜后再涂上提供额外防护的防晒粉底。”
Skincare expert MUA Joy said: 'I have a love/hate relationship with matte liquid lipsticks. The selling point of these are that they last all day, but the majority of them are incredibly drying on the lips and uncomfortable for long-wear.
护肤专家MUA·乔也说:“我对哑光唇釉又爱又恨。它的卖点是可以保持一整天不掉色,但是大多数哑光唇釉都会让嘴唇变得很干,而且长期使用还不舒服。”
'If you are going to use a matte liquid lipstick15, try applying lip balm first (check for that the lip balm has no drying ingredients such as alcohol) and use underneath17 the product to help act as a barrier from dry lip.'
“如果你要用哑光唇釉,试试先涂润唇膏(不含酒精等让嘴唇发干的成分),然后再涂哑光唇釉,这样可以防止嘴唇发干。”
SCRUB EXFOLIANTS 去角质磨砂膏
'Scrub exfoliators have been around for a long time and although they may help remove make-up, the particles in scrubs such as beads18, salts and grains can be abrasive19, causing irritation and inflammation to the skin', said Joy.
乔也说:“去角质磨砂膏已经存在了很长时间,尽管它有助于卸妆,但是磨砂膏所含的滚珠、盐粒和谷粒等颗粒物很粗糙,会导致皮肤刺痛、发炎。”
'They can also cause micro tears in the skin, damaging your skin in the long run and possibly causing permanent skin damage.
“磨砂膏还会导致皮肤轻微撕裂,长期使用会损害皮肤,甚至可能造成永久的皮肤损伤。”
'If you're going to use a scrub exfoliant, try to use it gently and in a coin-sized amount, and reduce your use to only once a week.'
“如果你要用去角质磨砂膏,使用时要轻柔,用量不超过一个硬币大小,并将使用频率降到一周一次。”
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