"It was like lying in a great solemn cathedral, far vaster and more beautiful than any built by the hand of man," wrote Teddy Roosevelt, of camping in Yosemite Park.
At about 4 am, after hours of being unable to sleep; of shivering(颤抖) in the cold mountain air – despite going to bed fully1 dressed and with a wool hat pulled down over my ears – and trying to silence my crying kids who kept waking up and whimpering(幽咽) in the chill; of futilely2 attempting to find a position on the air mattress3 that didn't send my lower back into spasms4(肌痉挛) ; of listening to sounds that might or might not have been a bear sniffing5 around outside our tent, I finally couldn't stand it any more.
I simply had to pee. Gritting6 my teeth, I turned on a flashlight, put on my shoes, unzipped the door of my tent, stumbled out into the night, and made a dash for the pit-toilet at the edge of the camp site.
There was no bear. But there were an impossibly large number of stars twinkling above.
I peed, ran back to my tent, and half-slept till dawn.
Hours later, as the sun crept up over the edge of the awesome7 Lassen peak – the jagged relic8 of a powerful volcanic9 explosion that strewed10 boulders11 over hundreds of square miles – in the remote northeast of California, I pulled my sleeping bag over my head and whined12(发牢骚) exhaustedly13 that "everything has gone wrong."
Like so many other grouchy14 early morning, pre-coffee utterances15(表达,说话) I make, this one was ludicrously off-key. Things weren't wrong; they were right.
My wife and I were in one tent with our two young kids; our friends Jessica and Michael, and their two children, were in another. A hundred yards away was Summit Lake, the glorious early morning mists shimmering16 off the water. A couple miles to the south-west was the base of the Lassen Peak Trail. The base was 8,000ft above sea level, huge snowbanks dotting the landscape even in mid17 August. The peak of the volcano soared 2,500ft above, its ragged18 tree line halfway19 up, marking the outer limits of ecological20 regeneration following a series of hundreds of "minor21" eruptions22 in the early 20th century that were immortalised in the photographs of BF Loomis.
Above, lay a rocky, craggy(崎岖的) moonscape. Further west still was Bumpass Hell, an inferno23 of bubbling, sulphurous(含硫磺的) mud and water, with plumes24 of steam rising up through the delicate crust surrounding the cauldrons.
We fired up the camp stove, got out our cold boxes from the heavy metal bear-locker, fried up some bacon, cut open some bagels, and boiled up a thermos-full of coffee.
Half an hour later, my six-year-old daughter and I were in the parking lot of the Lassen peak trail, getting ready to hike as far as we could up the mountainside. We wouldn't make it all the way – young legs get pretty tired on a steep mountain trail in the thin air two miles above sea level – but it didn't matter. We would see nature at its extremes: grand vistas25 spread out below us, the volcanic ash that layered on the earth turning the melting snows an eerie26 pink as the sun struck it; the blues27 of the sky shading into the blues of distant lakes, which in turn shaded into the whites and pinks and grays of the snowpack.
My daughter grabbed my camera. She wanted to take a photo of "the composite" of colours. Looking out over that landscape, and seeing my daughter grappling with the immensity of nature, I felt stupid about my morning tirade28(长篇大论) .
Yes, camping is uncomfortable. And yes, there's a lot to be said for getting out a credit card, reserving a room in a nice hotel with a large TV in front of which to park the kids, and going out for a fancy meal and a good glass of wine. But there's also something infinitely29 wonderful about being so close to raw nature. And, as important, there's something vital about getting young children out of their increasingly technology-padded comfort zones and forcing them to encounter the non-cyber world around them.
We lose something when we spend all our time cocooned30(紧紧包住) inside a carefully constructed modernity, when we read about daily affronts31 to the environment – yet, removed from the majesty32 of nature, don't fully realise what is at stake. It's a good thing to reconnect every so often with the Great Outdoors.
Lassen has no hotels. If you want to see the splendours of this landscape, you have no choice but to stay in one of the campsites(露营营地) nestling on the edge of the lakes and against the sides of the mountains.
After camping in Yosemite, Teddy Roosevelt once declared that "It was like lying in a great solemn cathedral, far vaster and more beautiful than any built by the hand of man." That sentiment holds as true today as it did in Roosevelt's time. What a wondrous33 thing is nature. And what a joy to see a child grasp that simple truth.