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冬天了,时尚与保暖真的不可兼得吗?就是这么不可思议,保暖实用的高领毛衣(polo neck)居然成功逆袭,成为这个冬天炙手可热的时尚单品。让我们跟随《卫报》,来看看高领毛衣背后的故事。
The polo neck is the most bad-ass player in fashion right now. So wrong for so long, it is suddenly so right. Forget the Milk Tray man, forget cheesy models wearing rollnecks outdoors to signal wholesome1, mail-order family life. Forget 70s skiwear. In 2015, the polo neck is Kim Kardashian in a black body-con polo neck dress or Alexa Chung in an oxblood polo neck sweater and leather mini. It is Taylor Swift channelling Funny Face, and Joaquin Phoenix2 in Inherent Vice3.
高领毛衣正成为时尚界的一匹黑马。曾经老气横秋的高领毛衣一夜间摇身变为时尚宠儿。忘掉Milk Tray巧克力广告的主角吧,忘掉穿着翻领毛衣在室外、让人想起以邮购为乐的平淡居家生活的俗气模特儿吧,忘掉70年代的滑雪装吧!2015年,各大明星纷纷诠释着高领毛衣的时尚,金•卡戴珊身着黑色紧身高领毛衣裙,艾里珊•钟穿着暗红色高领毛衣和一条迷你皮裙。泰勒•斯威夫特演唱歌曲《Funny Face》身穿高领毛衣,杰昆•菲尼克斯在电影《性本恶》也是身着高领毛衣。
There are two pop-cultural factors behind the polo neck's rise on the fashion stock market. The 1970s have finally displaced the 1990s as the decade most referenced in fashion and film, and the polo neck is to the 1970s what the crew neck was to the T-shirt-wearing 1990s. At the same time, the way in which feminism has returned to become a mainstream4 cultural issue is being clearly mirrored in fashion. In an era when page 3 is still an issue to get all sides hot under the collar, to cover up to the chin is to make a strong statement about what you expect to be valued for.
高领毛衣成为时尚宠儿的背后有两大根植于流行文化的原因。因其在时尚界和电影界被借鉴的频率之高,20世纪70年代最终代替了90年代,成为了时尚的风行标,而高领毛衣之于70年代,就如T恤衫至于90年代。同时,女性主义正在逐渐成为一种主流文化,这也清楚地反映在时尚中。这是一个Page 3(英国小报《太阳报》的第三页)都足以让各方恼怒不已的时代,那么女性用高领遮住自己的下巴便是在有力地宣示着她们渴望得到的尊重。
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