All climbers seeking a permit for Qomolangma must have prior high altitude mountaineering experience and demonstrable training, a high-level commission for the Nepalese government has ruled.

 

尼泊尔政府管辖的高级委员会规定，凡是想获准攀登珠穆朗玛峰的人，必须有高海拔登山经历并受过硬核的培训。

 

The recommendation was issued by the body charged with looking at the issue of high-altitude safety after one of the deadliest seasons in recent years on Qomolangma, which was blamed on inexperience and crowding near the summit.

 

Eleven climbers were killed or went missing on the 8,850-metre mountain in May, nine on the Nepalese side and two on the Tibetan side.

 

The Nepalese panel - made up of government officials, climbing experts and agencies representing the climbing community - was set up after climbers and guides criticised officials for allowing anyone who paid $11,000 to attempt to climb Qomolangma. Some veteran guiding companies had long warned of the dangerous consequences of inexperience and crowds on the summit slopes.

 

"Climbers to [Qomolangma] and other 8,000-metre mountains must undergo basic and high altitude climbing training," the panel said in the report it submitted to the government.

 

It said that those hoping to climb Qomolangma must have climbed at least one Nepalese peak of more than 6,500-metres before getting a permit. Climbers must also submit a certificate of good health and physical fitness and be accompanied by a trained Nepalese guide.

 

Mira Acharya, a member of the panel, said: "Climbers died due to altitude sickness, heart attack, exhaustion¹ or weaknesses, and not due to traffic jams". She said the compulsory² provision of guides for each climber was to discourage solo attempts, which put lives at risk.

 

The panel's report also proposes a fee of at least $35,000 for those wanting to climb Qomolangma , and $20,000 for other mountains higher than 8,000m.

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