Dr. Samuel Johnson's dictionary once summarily dismissed porridge, defining oats as a "grain, which in England is generally given to horses, but in Scotland supports the people."

 

That was in the 1700s. These days, porridge is seen as more cool than gruel¹. Today is -- and to celebrate, London hosted its own porridge-making competition.

 

"Most people think of porridge as a winter dish, and a richer, heavier dish. But I do think it's coming back in vogue². In the last 10 years, it's risen in profile," says Toral Shah, a competitor at Friday morning's event.

 

Porridge is traditionally Scottish, with its heritage in the oaty diets of crofters, or tenant³ farmers, of the remote Highlands. I'm a Scotsman, and porridge formed an integral part of my childhood. Winter would mean one thing for certain: a steaming hot bowl of the stuff every morning, before trudging⁴ through the snow to school.

 

Porridge is such a subjective⁵ thing. Mine was made with milk, occasionally dried fruit, and either brown sugar or golden syrup⁶ drizzled⁷ in the shape of a smiley face. Just as long as you remember to stir clockwise -- stirring counter-clockwise risks summoning the devil, according to Scottish superstition⁸.

 

Nick Barnard is a porridge traditionalist, and a judge in Friday's London Porridge Championships. "I have a bowl of oatmeal, flavored with salt and cooked just right -- piping hot," Barnard says, explaining his technique. "I dip my spoon into the porridge, then into cold, raw Guernsey cream. ... And there I am, absolutely loving this wonderful simplicity⁹."

 

Barnard runs London-based Rude Health foods, which sponsored Friday's competition. He was crowned last year's champion in the "speciality" category -- he made a fruity date dish -- at the World Porridge Making Championships, held annually¹⁰ in Carrbridge in the Highlands of Scotland.

 

The 21st world championship was held last weekend. Entrants competed in two categories: traditional and speciality. The winner in the former category takes home the "Golden Spurtle," a Scottish kitchen tool for stirring porridge, thought to have originated six centuries ago. Made of wood, it looks like a tiny baseball bat. This year's traditional winner, Dr. Izhar Khan, a kidney specialist from Aberdeen, Scotland, told NPR he credited his victory to the spurtle he used, made by one of his patients.

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